Tlacochahuaya: Off The Beaten Track

                          Tlacochahuaya is a quiet little village tucked away in the heart of the Tlacolula valley. Founded
                          long before the Spanish conquest, this community owes its heritage and early language to the
                          Zapotecs. In its beginnings, the natives called their home Zaani. The modern name is Nahua for
                          place of "damp soil". In this sleepy haven, sheltered by dramatic hills and mountains, the heart of
                          the community is the market square. The dominant feature is the church of San Jeronimo and
                          the accompanying monastery. San Jeronimo is the patron saint of the town. Erected in the l6th
                          century over the site of a pre-conquest temple , this church dedicated to him stands in imposing
                          solitude. It almost seems to gather the sleeping past around it. Even the frescos of the early
                          artists have the air of ancient relics. There are grand retables flanked by sculptures and an altar
                          piece honoring the image of this saint. The still vibrant colors of the interior area sharp contrast
                          to the living quarters of the nearby monastery.

                          Legend has it that this church was the site of the wedding of Natipa, heir to the throne of
                          Zaachila, the capital of Zapotazo, and Guielace, second daughter of Tivoot, the local village
                          chieftain. It would seem hard to imagine a more perfect place for the wedding to come. The
                          newly painted frescos of cherubs and floral designs dancing and glittering in the candlelight and
                          the air heavy with the fragrance of banks of fresh flowers. The hum of the newly arrived pipe
                          organ may have added to the excitement of that long ago day. With the dust of the conquest not
                          yet settled over the area, some guests took exception to the presence of the Spaniards who
                          had been invited. A disturbance began which quickly got out of hand. The young bride and
                          groom were killed in the ensuing melée. That, of course, is one of the legends concerning this
                          union. Another is that the young couple ate so much that they died. Always the romantic, I
                          prefer to believe the first explanation. This lovely village is located about twenty kilometers from
                          Oaxaca. The beautiful organ is still around but is rarely played except by the occasional visiting
                          concert organist. September 30th begins the feast of San Jeronimo which lasts for five days and
                          includes calends, fire crackers, music, dances, sports contests, game and lots of fun. There are
                          also many booths selling the wonderful local dishes. This sounds like a good time and place for
                          a trip off the beaten track.

                          This is part of an article by Rita De Melo Ferriera.