The New York Times
October 25, 1998

          An Island in a Sea of Calm

          By DEBORAH L. JACOBS

          Anguilla's many beaches and warm waters are bypassed by cruise ships and jets, but paradise is not cheap

               ONE of the great joys of traveling to the Caribbean in winter is being able to shovel out of East
               Coast snow in the morning, and be on the beach that afternoon. Unfortunately, once you get
          there, you're likely to find hordes of people who have done exactly the same thing.

          Wanting the escape without the frenzy, my husband and I chose Anguilla for our vacation in
          December. Guidebooks suggested that this island, one of the British Leewards, was quiet and not
          overly developed. We hoped to find plenty of turquoise water and white sand without the nightclubs
          and cruise-ship traffic.

          In Anguilla, so much paradise has a price.

          Accommodations are expensive. And meals, which rely heavily on imported ingredients on this small island, can be
          an even bigger problem for value-conscious travelers. Anguilla has several good upscale restaurants, but with a
          15 percent tax and service charge, dinner for two can easily cost $150.

          Forewarned, my husband, Ken Stern, and I planned our vacation to straddle the low and high season, taking
          advantage of the economy rates most hotels offer before Dec. 15. We rented an apartment with a kitchen
          ($2,655 for 12 nights), and brought along two cartons of staples, including cereal, powdered milk, cheese,
          crackers, peanuts and frozen orange juice.

          Equipped with a stroller and two-week supply of diapers for our 6-month-old son, Jack, we left
          New York one rainy day in December. There are no direct flights to Anguilla from the continental
          United States, so we flew into St. Maarten, then took a 15-minute ferry ride five miles north.

          The taxi ride from the airport in St. Maartin to Marigot, where boats leave for Anguilla about every
          20 minutes, had reminders of everything we wanted to avoid: Burger King, Caribbean branches of
          Fifth Avenue stores and throngs of tourists.

          Anguilla, 16 miles long and 3 miles wide, was a world apart. A porter with a wheelbarrow took our
          luggage from the dock to customs. We saw more goats than people (Anguilla's population is under
          10,000) on the 15-minute cab ride to our apartment.

          From the bumpy main road that roughly bisects Anguilla, this tiny island doesn't initially strike the
          visitor as beautiful. Vegetation is sparse, since little besides mangroves and cactus can grow in the
          arid limestone soil, and the island is absolutely flat. Most of the charming 19th century
          gingerbread-style houses have been replaced with concrete buildings meant to withstand hurricanes.
          Old cars sit rusting in front yards.

          Anguilla's chief attraction is its more than 30 beaches -- miles and miles of pristine, powdery soft
          sand, and warm, crystal-clear water. The beaches are not apparent from the road, but a brief
          detour, most often along a bone-jarring dirt path, ultimately gives way to sand and sea.

               Our base was the Blue Waters apartments on Shoal Bay West, on the island's westernmost
               end. The 800-square-foot first-floor unit we rented had an ample bedroom and bathroom in
          back, and a large combination living room, dining room and kitchen in front. Wide
          mahogany-louvered doors opened onto a porch, creating an airy pavilion some 20 yards from the
          water's edge.

          The Moorish-style whitewashed building that housed our apartment and seven others like it was
          landscaped for maximum privacy. Coconut palms and bougainvillea bushes separated our outdoor
          area from neighboring ones. Except during the hottest part of the day, there was at least one shady
          spot where Jack could play in the sand. When he was inside sleeping, we could be outside reading
          -- or at night, stargazing -- and still within earshot. The apartment was simply furnished, with
          concrete built-in whitewashed furniture and a fully equipped kitchen. There was maid service six
          days a week, with plenty of fresh towels for bath and beach. For an extra $10 a night, Blue Waters
          supplied a crib. Day and night, we could hear the crash of the surf. There was no air-conditioning,
          but cool breezes and ceiling fans made it unnecessary.

          We did find an air-conditioned car invaluable for exploring the island. And while we went low-end
          with a subcompact Suzuki Swift, we might have been more comfortable negotiating the speed
          bumps, potholes and dirt roads with four wheel drive.

          Even with the rough terrain, it's possible to drive from one end of the island to the other in about half
          an hour, and during our two weeks on Anguilla we traversed it many times. Hotels and restaurants
          have capitalized on some of the most dramatic spots, but all beaches are public -- even if it means
          walking through the lobby of an expensive hotel.

          The best beaches (and not surprisingly, the expensive hotels) are on the west end of the island. Though none
          were crowded, the Shoal Bay West beach, where our apartment was situated, was small, serene and relatively
          deserted. Our favorite beach for swimming was Maunday's Bay, site of the expensive Cap Juluca resort.
          This sheltered cove is bathtub-calm, and a path leads onto the beach from Cap Juluca's public parking lot. Another
          long, beautiful beach with good swimming is Rendezvous Bay, accessible through the Anguilla Great House resort.
          At these beaches, and many others adjacent to hotels, shade lovers will want to bring their own umbrellas, since
          the ones that are set up are reserved for guests.

          For $4, anyone can rent umbrellas and beach chairs at Shoal Bay East, a vast expanse with calm,
          clear water. But this is one of the few honky-tonk parts of the island, with a backdrop of
          beach-shack restaurants.

          Excursions to some of Anguilla's off-shore cays and remote beaches took us to more secluded
          spots. Little Bay, with a sheltered beach only about 10 yards long and shaded by limestone cliffs, is
          accessible just by water. Hoping to snorkel, we took a boat from Crocus Bay (the five-minute ride is
          $10 a person round trip). And while there was little to see besides minnows, it was a tranquil place
          to spend the morning.

          We had slightly better luck snorkeling off Sandy Island, a strip of beach about 150 yards long,
          where we saw angelfish, butterfly fish and small groupers. The island itself is uninteresting: half a
          dozen picnic tables with umbrellas, and a small snack stand. Apparently the place had greater appeal
          before Hurricane Luis struck in 1995, narrowing the island considerably.

          Sandy Island Enterprises, which runs boats every hour ($8 a person round trip), continues to feature
          pre-hurricane pictures in its brochures. No doubt other tourists are surprised -- as we were -- to
          find the place almost wiped out.

          Despite government efforts to promote Anguilla's water sports, we found reef life around the island
          disappointing. Whether the 1995 hurricane devastated the reefs, or whether Anguilla never had much
          to begin with, is difficult to determine. While snorkeling in various spots, including the water outside
          our apartment, we noticed a lot of dead coral. In 1990, before the hurricane struck, Anguilla
          Government officials deliberately sank four ships which in time will generate their own eco-systems.
          My husband, who is an avid scuba diver, was so disappointed with the snorkeling that he decided
          not to spend the $80 a day the water-sports vendors charge for a full day's excursion.

          If beaches are one of Anguilla's chief entertainments, food is the other. For many tourists, that means
          dining at the high-priced restaurants whose chefs advertise culinary pedigrees from Europe, Asia and
          the United States.

          It's debatable whether Anguilla really is a gourmet's delight; either way, it costs a lot to find out. After
          a couple of mediocre mid-priced meals (about $55 for two), we decided to test our independence.
          We soon found that the three of us could eat all day for $25 -- less than the price of one upscale

          Some of our best meals combined take-out cooked meat with fresh fruits and vegetables (imported
          from the nearby islands of Dominica and St. Lucia) bought at roadside stands and prepared in our
          own kitchen. We served boiled pumpkin, plantains and sliced avocado with Jamaican jerk chicken
          from Gee Wee's Bakery, about two miles from our apartment. Dessert was a coconut muffin (also
          from Gee Wee's) and a mango and banana smoothy made in the blender that came with our

          On several days for lunch, we queued up with the schoolchildren at a food truck on Coronation Avenue in Anguilla's
          commercial center, known as the Valley. We especially liked the baked chicken, stewed chicken and spicy conch stew
          (a local specialty). Saturday foraging at the same location led us to a woman who sells sweet-corn chowder
          from a station wagon. To accompany it, we tried her feathery light johnnycakes -- as big as saucers -- and luscious
          sweet potato pudding heavy with molasses, cinnamon and cloves.

          Food also became our passport for meeting Anguillans. One resident directed us to the Pepperpot restaurant, also
          in the Valley. There we feasted on roti: a thin crepe filled with chicken and potato curry.

          Some of the other tourists we met seemed appalled at our food choices. But we've eaten "people's food" all over
          the world, and managed never to get sick. Our strategy has always been to look for places with high local
          turnover -- a guarantee of freshness.

          Everywhere we went, Jack was a big icebreaker with the friendly Anguillans. When we stopped at a
          roadside stand to buy fruit, the vendor suggested we purée pumpkin for the baby. To accompany it,
          she insisted we take several bananas without charge. At Ripples, a moderate-priced restaurant with
          a wonderfully inventive menu, several employees offered to hold Jack while we ate.

              The only place he seemed unwelcome was at Oliver's Seaside Grill, one of Anguilla's newest
               restaurants catering to the carriage trade. Despite the waiters' obvious impatience with Jack,
          who happened to be cranky that night, we managed to enjoy our main courses: peppered tuna loin
          with pineapple salsa, and a smoky, spicy crayfish -- both grilled. The fish soup we ordered as an
          appetizer turned out to be a small bowl of watered-down bisque, hardly worth the $9 charge. The
          tab for our splurge came to a whopping $95 without drinks or dessert.

          There were times when we missed those quiet dinners alone, and the chance to snorkel together,
          rather than taking turns. But as two working parents, we thoroughly enjoyed a vacation with our
          baby. Having missed the day he rolled over for the first time because we were at work, we were
          delighted to watch him laugh like a lunatic at the swaying coconut palms and squeal with delight at
          the sensation of kicking sand.

          "It's too bad Jack won't remember this vacation," my husband said during the flight home. Probably
          not, but we certainly will.

          Finding the right ingredients

          Ferries to Anguilla leave every half hour from Marigot (a $20 cab ride from the St. Maarten airport);
          the ferry takes 15 minutes and costs $10. A ferry from the St. Maarten airport called The Link
          leaves once a day ($15, 30 minutes). In high season, there are three American Eagle flights daily
          from Puerto Rico, and one the rest of the year.

          Where to Stay

          The rates below do not include the 18 percent extra for
          tax and service charge.

          Blue Waters Beach Apartments, Post Office Box 69, Shoal Bay West, Anguilla, British West Indies; telephone
          (264) 497-6292, fax (264) 497-6982. One-bedroom beachfront apartments cost $125 a night April 1 to Dec.
          15, $235 in season. Two-bedroom apartments are $175 out of season and $330 in season.

          Cap Juluca, Post Office Box 240, Maunday's Bay, Anguilla, British West Indies; (888) 858-5822, fax (264)
          497-6617. Rates at this 179-acre luxury resort start at $510 a day in high season. Continental breakfast and
           all water sports are included. Cap Juluca discourages bringing children younger than 6 during the winter.

          Frangipani Beach Club, Post Office Box 1378, Mead's Bay, Anguilla, British West Indies; (800)
          892-4564, fax (264) 497-6440. One-bedroom suites with kitchens range from $270 a night in low
          season (April 16 to Nov. 15 and Dec. 1 to 18) to $550 in high season (Dec. 19 to April 15). Most
          accommodations have a view of the water, but don't open right onto the beach.

          Getting Around

          Rental rates range from $200 to $240 a week for a car with automatic transmission and
          air-conditioning. Four-wheel-drive vehicles cost slightly more. Rentals include unlimited mileage and
          free delivery to your hotel. As in Britain, traffic moves on the left side of the road, but rental cars all
          seem to have the steering wheel on the left.

          Taxis charge pre-set prices; for example, the ride from the airport to the west end, where most
          hotels are, is $14 to $18.

          Where to Eat

          Gee Wee's Bakery, The West End, (264) 497-6462. There's no ambiance: Tables are outdoors
          overlooking the road. But the Jamaican jerk chicken (available to take out for $2.50) is expertly
          spiced. Fresh bakery items (most about 75 cents) include coconut muffins, sweet potato pudding
          and moist, dense banana bread.

          Oliver's Seaside Grill, Long Bay Beach, (264) 497-8780. Lunch might be a better choice at this
          dramatic waterfront spot; dinners bring a more extensive selection of Continental-Caribbean foods,
          but no view. The portions are small and the prices steep. Dinner for two without drinks or dessert:

          Pepperpot, The Valley, (264) 497-2328. A favorite with locals known for its roti -- a crepe with
          your choice of filling (chicken, potato, meat, or vegetable). The spicy conch stew is also outstanding.
          Roti lunch for two with drinks: $11.

          Ripples, Sandy Ground, (264) 497-3380. The menu can satisfy everyone from vegetarians to
          carnivores, pasta lovers to Mexican food enthusiasts. Especially recommended: coconut shrimp
          (lightly fried shrimp coated with fresh coconut, served with tomato-pineapple salsa) and fish coco
          (snapper fillets cooked in coconut milk and tamarind). Dinner for two, main course only: $45.

          The lunch truck opposite Anguilla Arts and Craft Center serves local specialties (bull's foot soup,
          oxtail stew and conch stew) as well as less exotic stewed, baked or roasted chicken. Most meals
          come with vegetables and rice. Prices range from $4.50 for chicken and chips to $10 for conch
          stew. Saturday morning at the same spot, you can buy sweet-corn chowder ($4 a pint),
          johnnycakes, and sweet-potato pudding from a woman with a blue station wagon.